On this International Women's Rights Day, we'd like to introduce you to these stories of strong, independent women in the north of the country. They have turned tourism into a means of emancipation and empowerment. The north of the country is still untouched by mass tourism and remains primarily an agricultural zone, but these women have decided to present their know-how and that of their communities to travelers who venture into the region.
If we're talking about women's work and the status of women, it's not just because it's March 8, but because we want to take advantage of this date to remind people of women's rights around the world and in Costa Rica.
Even if the country is considered a model pupil in terms of environmental preservation, it still has a long way to go to get closer to gender equality.
To give a few figures and examples:
The Cuyito de Boca Tapada family project was born several years ago. On this farm, the family invites us to come and discover not only local know-how, but also the San Carlos River, which runs through the village and lies at the foot of their farm. The rustic-style establishment is made entirely of wood, and the restaurant's magnificent terrace offers a bird's-eye view of the river. While enjoying the tortillas we made ourselves, we can watch and listen to the green parrots and other local birds. The guide, Maryeli, is the daughter of the family. She took over the business a few months ago, after the death of her father. Barely twenty-two, she is in charge of welcoming travelers, taking them on a boat tour of the river and showing them the wonders of the family farm, home to countless medicinal plants and fruit trees like the one her father planted when he was born. Along the way, Maryeli introduces us to exotic fruits and tells us her story:
"When I was little, the school was in the village, three kilometers from here. By public transport, it only took ten minutes, but we had an old car and I remember more than once it broke down! So my father would walk with me for an hour. He'd make me change my shoes so that when I got there I'd have clean ones. Then I started working with my parents as a waitress in our restaurant, about 5 years ago. At first I was shy and didn't dare talk too much. But as time went by I freed myself and now I'm very talkative haha. My favorite part of my job is the cultural exchange with the visitors who come to see us from all over the world. On the boat, I often start by talking about Costa Rica and our customs, while at the same time keeping an eye out for animals to show them!"
Today, she runs the family business; her mother looks after the kitchen and laundry, as they also have cabins to accommodate visitors. Maryeli can also count on the help of a gardener and a handyman of Nicaraguan origin. They have lived and worked on the farm for many years, and are virtually part of the family. In the mornings, around six o'clock, they have breakfast and discuss the organization of their day: the entrance sign needs to be updated, part of the land needs to be weeded...
At lunchtime, Maryeli's mother and her kitchen assistant prepare fresh fish caught in the river, such as robalo or guapote (fish similar to sea bass), with rice and black beans on the side. It's by far Maryeli's favorite meal!
As well as looking after the farm, Maryeli is also taking online courses to improve her English. Twenty-two years old, this determined young woman is doing her utmost to acquire new skills in order to make her family heritage prosper.
Arriving early for our visit to the palmito plantation, we are greeted by the matriarch of the house, Doña Elisabeth. She welcomes us into her home, surrounded by the women of her family: her mother, her sister and one of her nieces. They're all seated around the big kitchen table, sharing a breakfast of, you guessed it, rice and black beans; a good gallo pinto, just the way we like it! You feel right at home here, sitting down for a coffee. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming; the main building is surrounded by nature and a farmyard with chickens and goats.
On the way to Elisabeth's plantations, we pass through pineapple fields cultivated by other local growers in the area. Elisabeth explains that this land runs in the family, with several of her siblings owning parts of it.
There are 4 species of palmitos in the world; Costa Rica is the world's third-largest exporter and France the largest importer! Our hostess makes us taste the heart of palm directly from the plant, freshly cut by the person in charge of harvesting; it's refreshing, crunchy and delicate. Elisabeth never tires of eating them. She cooks hearts of palm in all their forms: as a raw salad, cooked with rice and cheese, in soup or au gratin. Her father likes it cut into tiny pieces, which Elisabeth finds a little exasperating because, of course, she's the one who prepares it!
After a tour of the plantations, we head home to concoct a delicious meal based on hearts of palm! It's like being in our grandmother's kitchen in the country; it's comfortable and the food, prepared with passion and love, is comfortingly tasty. So this lunchtime, we'll be serving chicken with cream and hearts of palm (not forgetting, of course, our unmissable rice-black bean duo): a real delight!
Elisabeth explains that local and international sales of this product require meticulous preparation: the palm has to be cut open to extract its heart. A kilo is then sold for €3.50. But these earnings are barely enough to support one person, and Doña Elisabeth also has her father to look after. So the end of the month is not easy, and she relies heavily on visits to her farm to supplement her income.
Rosi is originally from Caño Negro, where she works as a guide and set up her company Paraiso Tropical over 12 years ago. She lives on a small island in the nature reserve with her husband, also from the area, and their two sons. The land on which their home is located belonged to her husband's mother. Several years ago, she suggested that her daughter-in-law move in, but there was no water or electricity. This was enough to frighten Rosi, who came to live on the island with her husband and their two boys. For three years, they lived on a generator to produce electricity before installing a viable system. Now they're connected to the central electricity grid. Life on an island is certainly picturesque and charming, but it also has certain disadvantages: in the rainy season, it's not uncommon for the first floor to flood. What's more, you have to take a boat to get around. Her eldest son, now of age, learned to drive from an early age with his father, but the youngest, aged 10, doesn't yet dare take the helm, even though his mother has made it clear that one day he'll have to!
Caño Negro is a region of breathtaking natural beauty, offering a rich and diverse ecosystem. This wetland is renowned for its exceptional biodiversity, home to a multitude of animal and plant species. Its lush nature includes lagoons, meandering rivers and swamps, creating an ideal habitat for a variety of aquatic birds, reptiles, mammals and fish. Birdwatchers will be delighted by the presence of herons, egrets, spoonbills, storks, jacanas and many other species of migratory and resident birds, which Rosi enthusiastically introduces visitors to.
Joining her on a boat trip or an evening stroll is guaranteed to be a warm and rewarding experience. This woman is literally an open book, passionately sharing her knowledge of the local flora and fauna and the fascinating stories of the community over many generations.
In the small community of Los Chiles, before entering the Caño Negro reserve, you can discover the traditional trapiche of the Bazu sisters. Their family-run establishment includes a restaurant serving typical local food, set in the middle of lush green grounds. Below the property, one of the sisters, Noelin, accompanies us on a tour of the famous trapiche. This is a traditional mill used to extract juice from sugar cane. It's an emblematic place where you can observe the artisanal process of making sugar cane, often practiced in rural areas of the country. These wooden mills are operated by hand. A visit to trapiche is an authentic, immersive experience of Costa Rican culture, rich in information about the history, traditions and artisanal techniques of sugar production. It's also an opportunity to taste delicious fresh cane juice.
After this first activity, Noelin directs us to the property's outdoor kitchen where her sister is waiting for us for a tortilla-making workshop! This time, there's no question of taking ready-made corn flour! You have to grind it by hand several times until you get a very fine grain. Noelin tells us:
"My niece knows how to make tortillas, because her auntie (me) taught her, but she's a seventeen-year-old! Today, you ask any kid that age to make tortillas and she looks at you with a 'go buy some at the supermarket' look. But it's part of our culture. We make big tortillas too, las llenadoras (the fillers), because we're six brothers and sisters. So imagine, one woman cooking for her six children! Plus we didn't have much of an age difference, between one and two, so imagine the amount of food for so many children! That's how I learned to make the big ones! llenadoras. Just one per person and you're full! That's where the name comes from, they fill you up haha! What's more, I don't know how many recipes there are in Costa Rican cuisine using corn, but there sure are a lot!"
In the photo (from left to right) you can see Noelin's niece, who wants to follow in her aunts' footsteps by working with her, Noelin, her elder sister in charge of the company accounts, and finally the younger sister, the family's head chef!
- abortion is an offence under the 1970 penal code
- the morning-after pill has only been legal since 2021
- in 2023, no fewer than 800 feminicides were recorded in the country
- In the same year, there were 12.4% of unemployed women in the country (compared with 7.8% of men).
Maryeli de Boca Tapada
The Cuyito de Boca Tapada family project was born several years ago. On this farm, the family invites us to come and discover not only local know-how, but also the San Carlos River, which runs through the village and lies at the foot of their farm. The rustic-style establishment is made entirely of wood, and the restaurant's magnificent terrace offers a bird's-eye view of the river. While enjoying the tortillas we made ourselves, we can watch and listen to the green parrots and other local birds. The guide, Maryeli, is the daughter of the family. She took over the business a few months ago, after the death of her father. Barely twenty-two, she is in charge of welcoming travelers, taking them on a boat tour of the river and showing them the wonders of the family farm, home to countless medicinal plants and fruit trees like the one her father planted when he was born. Along the way, Maryeli introduces us to exotic fruits and tells us her story:
"When I was little, the school was in the village, three kilometers from here. By public transport, it only took ten minutes, but we had an old car and I remember more than once it broke down! So my father would walk with me for an hour. He'd make me change my shoes so that when I got there I'd have clean ones. Then I started working with my parents as a waitress in our restaurant, about 5 years ago. At first I was shy and didn't dare talk too much. But as time went by I freed myself and now I'm very talkative haha. My favorite part of my job is the cultural exchange with the visitors who come to see us from all over the world. On the boat, I often start by talking about Costa Rica and our customs, while at the same time keeping an eye out for animals to show them!"
Today, she runs the family business; her mother looks after the kitchen and laundry, as they also have cabins to accommodate visitors. Maryeli can also count on the help of a gardener and a handyman of Nicaraguan origin. They have lived and worked on the farm for many years, and are virtually part of the family. In the mornings, around six o'clock, they have breakfast and discuss the organization of their day: the entrance sign needs to be updated, part of the land needs to be weeded...
At lunchtime, Maryeli's mother and her kitchen assistant prepare fresh fish caught in the river, such as robalo or guapote (fish similar to sea bass), with rice and black beans on the side. It's by far Maryeli's favorite meal!
As well as looking after the farm, Maryeli is also taking online courses to improve her English. Twenty-two years old, this determined young woman is doing her utmost to acquire new skills in order to make her family heritage prosper.
Doña Elisabeth de Boca Tapada
Arriving early for our visit to the palmito plantation, we are greeted by the matriarch of the house, Doña Elisabeth. She welcomes us into her home, surrounded by the women of her family: her mother, her sister and one of her nieces. They're all seated around the big kitchen table, sharing a breakfast of, you guessed it, rice and black beans; a good gallo pinto, just the way we like it! You feel right at home here, sitting down for a coffee. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming; the main building is surrounded by nature and a farmyard with chickens and goats.
On the way to Elisabeth's plantations, we pass through pineapple fields cultivated by other local growers in the area. Elisabeth explains that this land runs in the family, with several of her siblings owning parts of it.
There are 4 species of palmitos in the world; Costa Rica is the world's third-largest exporter and France the largest importer! Our hostess makes us taste the heart of palm directly from the plant, freshly cut by the person in charge of harvesting; it's refreshing, crunchy and delicate. Elisabeth never tires of eating them. She cooks hearts of palm in all their forms: as a raw salad, cooked with rice and cheese, in soup or au gratin. Her father likes it cut into tiny pieces, which Elisabeth finds a little exasperating because, of course, she's the one who prepares it!
After a tour of the plantations, we head home to concoct a delicious meal based on hearts of palm! It's like being in our grandmother's kitchen in the country; it's comfortable and the food, prepared with passion and love, is comfortingly tasty. So this lunchtime, we'll be serving chicken with cream and hearts of palm (not forgetting, of course, our unmissable rice-black bean duo): a real delight!
Elisabeth explains that local and international sales of this product require meticulous preparation: the palm has to be cut open to extract its heart. A kilo is then sold for €3.50. But these earnings are barely enough to support one person, and Doña Elisabeth also has her father to look after. So the end of the month is not easy, and she relies heavily on visits to her farm to supplement her income.
Rosi de Caño Negro
Rosi is originally from Caño Negro, where she works as a guide and set up her company Paraiso Tropical over 12 years ago. She lives on a small island in the nature reserve with her husband, also from the area, and their two sons. The land on which their home is located belonged to her husband's mother. Several years ago, she suggested that her daughter-in-law move in, but there was no water or electricity. This was enough to frighten Rosi, who came to live on the island with her husband and their two boys. For three years, they lived on a generator to produce electricity before installing a viable system. Now they're connected to the central electricity grid. Life on an island is certainly picturesque and charming, but it also has certain disadvantages: in the rainy season, it's not uncommon for the first floor to flood. What's more, you have to take a boat to get around. Her eldest son, now of age, learned to drive from an early age with his father, but the youngest, aged 10, doesn't yet dare take the helm, even though his mother has made it clear that one day he'll have to!
Caño Negro is a region of breathtaking natural beauty, offering a rich and diverse ecosystem. This wetland is renowned for its exceptional biodiversity, home to a multitude of animal and plant species. Its lush nature includes lagoons, meandering rivers and swamps, creating an ideal habitat for a variety of aquatic birds, reptiles, mammals and fish. Birdwatchers will be delighted by the presence of herons, egrets, spoonbills, storks, jacanas and many other species of migratory and resident birds, which Rosi enthusiastically introduces visitors to.
Joining her on a boat trip or an evening stroll is guaranteed to be a warm and rewarding experience. This woman is literally an open book, passionately sharing her knowledge of the local flora and fauna and the fascinating stories of the community over many generations.
The Bazu sisters of Los Chiles
In the small community of Los Chiles, before entering the Caño Negro reserve, you can discover the traditional trapiche of the Bazu sisters. Their family-run establishment includes a restaurant serving typical local food, set in the middle of lush green grounds. Below the property, one of the sisters, Noelin, accompanies us on a tour of the famous trapiche. This is a traditional mill used to extract juice from sugar cane. It's an emblematic place where you can observe the artisanal process of making sugar cane, often practiced in rural areas of the country. These wooden mills are operated by hand. A visit to trapiche is an authentic, immersive experience of Costa Rican culture, rich in information about the history, traditions and artisanal techniques of sugar production. It's also an opportunity to taste delicious fresh cane juice.
After this first activity, Noelin directs us to the property's outdoor kitchen where her sister is waiting for us for a tortilla-making workshop! This time, there's no question of taking ready-made corn flour! You have to grind it by hand several times until you get a very fine grain. Noelin tells us:
"My niece knows how to make tortillas, because her auntie (me) taught her, but she's a seventeen-year-old! Today, you ask any kid that age to make tortillas and she looks at you with a 'go buy some at the supermarket' look. But it's part of our culture. We make big tortillas too, las llenadoras (the fillers), because we're six brothers and sisters. So imagine, one woman cooking for her six children! Plus we didn't have much of an age difference, between one and two, so imagine the amount of food for so many children! That's how I learned to make the big ones! llenadoras. Just one per person and you're full! That's where the name comes from, they fill you up haha! What's more, I don't know how many recipes there are in Costa Rican cuisine using corn, but there sure are a lot!"
In the photo (from left to right) you can see Noelin's niece, who wants to follow in her aunts' footsteps by working with her, Noelin, her elder sister in charge of the company accounts, and finally the younger sister, the family's head chef!
