Costa Rica's mascaradas: a living art form that tells the story of the Tica people

Every October 31, while the world decorates with pumpkins and Halloween costumes, Costa Rica celebrates its own masks, the mascaradas, at the heart of a festival recognized as National Traditional Mascarada Day (Día de la Mascarada Tradicional CostarricenseOn that day, the streets of many towns come alive to the beat of drums and trumpets: it is an explosion of music, dance, and laughter, a living tribute to the country's popular creativity.

In the small town of Barva de Heredia, the historical birthplace of this tradition, the festival is particularly spectacular. Paper giants have been parading there for decades, accompanied by cimarronas, these lively brass bands that set the pace for the dancers. In Escazú, near San José, the masquerade takes on a mystical dimension: legendary characters from local folklore—such as the witch Zárate or the devil—invade the cobbled streets. In Aserrí and Santo Domingo de Heredia, schools and craft associations compete to create the most expressive masks, while locals gather in the central squares to admire the parades and share traditional dishes.

Les mascaradas costariciennes trouvent leurs racines dans les fêtes religieuses de l’époque coloniale, inspirées par les géants et cabezudos d’Espagne. Avec le temps, elles ont évolué pour devenir un symbole d’identité nationale, mêlant humour, satire et folklore local.

The creative process is entirely artisanal. It all starts with a mold made from clay: the artisan sculpts the face of the future character by hand, whether it be a devil, an old lady, a caricatured politician, or a mythical figure. Several layers of papier-mâché soaked in natural glue are applied to this mold. After drying, the mold is removed, sanded, and then hand-painted in bright colors—red, blue, green, yellow—depending on the personality of the mask. Each piece can take several days or even weeks to complete.

Dans les montagnes brumeuses d’Escazú, un lieu que l’on dit habité par des sorcières, vit Geraldo, un mascarero passionné. Héritier d’un savoir-faire transmis de père en fils, il perpétue cette tradition artisanale. Son atelier  ressemble à un petit musée : partout, des visages colorés, des personnages grotesques et fascinants, des masques géants suspendus au plafond.

Among his most famous creations are the witch Zárate, emblem of Escazú, and La Segua, a witch with a horse's head. These masks are not mere decorative objects: they are designed to come to life in dance. The largest ones measure up to two meters and completely cover the dancer, giving the impression that a giant is coming to life before your eyes.

For those who wish to take home a souvenir, Geraldo also creates miniature masks, faithful to the originals, which can be displayed or given as gifts. And for curious travelers, he opens the doors of his workshop throughout the year: visitors can discover the manufacturing process, listen to stories of local legends, and even try their hand at creating a mask, under his kind guidance.

Les mascaradas ne sont pas seulement une fête : elles incarnent la joie, l’humour et l’esprit communautaire du Costa Rica. En 1997, le gouvernement a officiellement déclaré cette célébration Patrimoine culturel immatériel de la nation, reconnaissant son importance dans la préservation des traditions. Aujourd’hui, les écoles, les municipalités et les artisans travaillent pour transmettre cet art aux jeunes générations.

Discovering mascaradas means diving into the heart of the Tica soul—where music, legend, and art come together in a single burst of laughter.

How about meeting Geraldo in Escazú on your next trip? In his hands, paper and clay are transformed into characters full of life.